Over 6.000 users have contributed their vote on the caravan mover.dk. To install the Mover see voting results as follows:
|Have you installed your mover?||Voice percent from Caravan mover.dk Poll|
|I even mounted my mover||26.93%|
|I have not even mounted my mover||55.26%|
|I thought it look even that mounts||16.87%|
|I thought it was very||0.93%|
Mounts to even their Mover, gets kendskab to the installation The. The advantage is you can keep your fibrous Mover, eg if afstand to dæk be adjusted and lubricated, etc.. Erel. later fejlsøgning is also easier, since it is rising to the assembly and Mover opbygningen. As Gør It Yourself (Indkørsels fitter) you should expect the tags all in all about. 3-4 hours.
You can choose if you mount your mover should be front axle or behind the axle – See below the advantages and disadvantages:
In front of the shaft:
•Advantage: there is not enough water and dirt on the mover
•Udlempe: it has a greater chance of being damaged if you hit a curb or rock
•Udlempe: would often mover have a lower ground clearance
•Udlempe: if the mover is affected there is a risk of the mover is pushed against the tire
Behind the shaft:
•Advantage: there is often more headroom
•Advantage: If the caravan is nose heavy, it may reduce the weight bit by fitting behind the shaft
•Advantage: if the mover is hit it will be pushed back, and away from the wheel
It is recommended mover is mounted behind the shaft.
Gor THE SELF: ASSEMBLY AF ENDURO MOVER
Lars and Karin have even installed a mover on their Kabe. Click here to see how you can even mount a mover in his caravan.
Such, you can even mount a mover
Lars & Karin recounts:
Like so many other, we have chosen to mount a mover on our Kabe, both because 1,5 tons caravan is not the easiest and push around, but also because in many places, it can be hard to get the vehicle into, on the parcels.
We move our wagon 2 times per year, but when we move it, We have always home for a while, to get it done thoroughly clean, and at home, it is certainly not easy and get it towed around, since our driveway has a slope of 9% and you have around a house corner , it went well enough until now, but it is not easy .
Pupleline Enduro mover, series 2
We have chosen one one Pupleline Enduro mover, series 2 with model number. EM4444, it has a number of improvements from the first model, the first models had chain drive, which was not successful, therefore you are now gone over to the gear / cog, and at the same time, the exchange has improved, and some other things have improved.
And then there's also the little things, that it is an affordable mover, which, in spite of the cost, is recommended by many.
Enough about it, let's get rocking
The whole event weighs about. 37 kg, and in addition 2 cardboard boxes, that is packaged very logical and easily manageable, one box contains the motors, and otherwise, but it weighs so also about. 21 kg, the second elongated cardboard box, contains all the other equipment.
However, one must just be aware of, that on some chassis must be some extra bracket for, this has not been the case here (they must be ordered separately), which included a drawing, which can also be seen in the left, if the objectives here are not complied, should devote extra fittings, for mounting in the correct H..
In the accompanying monteringsvejledning, there is a very accessible drawing, with illustrations af all, what barracks should Contains, and how many textile apart af each. Monteringsvejledningen are all led also divided up into chapters, with the mechanical and electrical installation, and not least a lot of warnings about, what not to Gore .
Please note that the mover can be mounted bag on his shoulder, but also in front, Manual prescribes the front axle, but vores tilfælde we will get Kambo create a Shock absorber, so why is it mounted shoulder bag.
The first step is the mechanical installation, which will stretch that few hængt engines up, motors come, that 2 independent units, which will be hung separately, and then they are “associated” with two crossbars, one crossbar (the large), is just to manage and maintain the motors, and the thinner one, is the connecting coupling of mover, coupling takes place mechanically with an angle wrench, and in that it is connected across, you can connect both sides simultaneously, No matter what side you stand on.
The engine is not exactly the easiest, and there's not much space game, so our little workshop jack from Uncle Harold, was a huge help. Once the engine is up to hang, and the bracket is loosely, so it is very easy and put both crossbars on, remember not to tighten anything yet, just with the fingers.
When everything is assembled and up and hanging, the motoring-aligned, in the supplied's 2 small blocks of metal, these set between the drive roller and covered, the engine is pushed towards the pad, it fits with, that is præsist 20mm clearance, the motors must also be properly sideways, it can definitely recommended and see installation video, there are some good tips. There are also some alright illustrations in the manual.
The manual also also described how many Nm bolts must be tightened to, it can be an advantage and have a torque wrench.
This very mechanical installation took about. 1½ hours.
An important caveat that needs to be said and taken seriously right from the start of – CUT NOT ANY OF THE WIRING – wires must be exactly the same length, otherwise moverne come to pull skew, when one of the engines will get more power than the other.
Next step is the electrical installation, was the case for our, >> Hampered<< af en vandbåren gulvvarme, det var dog ikke værre, end at vi kunne bore hul, lige ved siden af et hul der var der fra fabrikken af, men pas på!, der kan jo også være gasrør, vanger, og andre elektriske installationer der løber under bunden.
The manual prescribes that one must drill a hole of about. 25mm, I can not see any reason, since the 4 motor cables up about. 12mm total, I chose to drill a 13mm hole.
So, we have led the wires from the motors until the hole, it is recommended to run wires, from each engine to the center of the caravan, and looked forward towards the hole, we have not quite followed this, because as I said, water underfloor heating in the cart, and we do not know 100% security, where the pipes are present, so it is not just and screw something in. But the main thing is, all 4 lines are the same length.
In the pictures below you can see the finished wiring.
Wiring front axle
Wiring behind the axle
Next step is to get the electric mounted, remember to unplug, and take both + and – the battery.
In our case, both the battery and booster mounted in advance, and this part is not included.
The control box for mover, should be between 30 and 60 cm away from the battery, it gave little trouble for us to get it fitted with this distance, so therefore we had to compromise, and mount it inside the hopper, in the seating group, thereby negating the minimal storage, but it's nothing to do about.
The control box is screwed, and you can now squeeze sod on the motor wires, but remember to get them fitted correctly, each cable has a unique number, as you can see the cord, where it is mounted on the engine. There are accessories small yellow marker clip, which is put on the wire with the correct number, it is very important, to get these numbered correctly, otherwise you can burn all the muck of.
The picture below on the left shows the control box retrofitted with wires. Picture beside, showing tray with battery, Control box, and the factory installed fuse box for both 220 and 12V system.
Before you connect power system, we need to have installed a safety switch and not least a fuse, to the mover, we start with the safety, the location of the, must be suitably, in the sense that one should be able to get to the, and one should be able to use his caravan, without going and be afraid to accidentally damage the, and of course, like near the battery.
We have placed tripped just inside the door, it was the ideal place, in our wagon. In the picture to the right, shows the positioning, disconnect the rear, where the power cables are attached, is protected by sitting group winter backrest, so even if you use the hatch into the end of the bench, then you will not be able to make contact with the power cables. And at the same time, then projecting the switch staying inside the door frame, so you have known to be more than unfortunate to hit the.
The hole for the switch was drilled with a DeWalt Flatwood, make sure you buy a drill of good quality, it is then too bad if dirt splinters, and furnishings in a caravan is not just the most massive.
The purpose of this safety switch, course and prevent the unintended use of mover, mover can not be activated unless the key is inserted into the switch and flipped over.
The safety profile in place, but to ensure that there can be no short circuits or other debris, we must have a fuse between the safety and control box, mover has a max. load of approximately. 84 amp., the security there is going to be mounted is a 100 amp. security.
Box and fuse seen in the picture below.
Now the cables can be connected, on the control box says no. 1 – 4, these are the numbers that will be used by the engine of, but note that it does not matter whether the motors are attached to the front axle or rear axle, so why look in the manual, and take a look at what numbers the cables to be connected.
Connect to last 12V + and – to the control unit, and refit the cable terminals of the battery.
When the power is, the control box create a self-control, and whew, all the lights came on and went off again, so everything was OK, nice, Then, just and press on the remote control, and see the control box turns green, indicating that it is ready to move caravan.
We have fitted mover while our car is set up with awning, but that one can easily test that it works, just remember and not to connect it to.
Finally, remember to have sealed the hole through the floor, so that no moisture gets up.
Overall, the electrical installation took about. 2½ hours, so all in all about. 4 hours, and which have not been stressed at any time.
And remember, safety first, although it is 12V, then there's roar on!.
Big thanks to Lars & Karin for the great article. See more articles on Lars and Karin's own website. :Click here, and more articles on Lars and Karin's own website.
If you do not have the courage, to mount your Mover, offers several camping workshops to mount Mover.